Cleaning & Care · Algae removal · cloudy water · swamp pools

Green Pool Cleanup and Algae Removal

A green pool gets clear again when the algae is killed, physically removed, and given no chemistry to regrow in, and Lanterra Pools handles all three: we raise chlorine to the level your stabilizer demands, brush and vacuum out the bloom, clean the filter it clogs, and fix the water balance that let it start. If you knew us for pool turnarounds, this is the same service under a clearer name.

Water-level view of clear water over a beach-entry shelf with bubbler fountains

Green, cloudy, or dark: what your water is telling you

Bright or pea-soup green water is free-floating green algae, the most common bloom and the easiest to kill once the chlorine is high enough. Cloudy water with a faint green or grey haze is usually an early bloom, dead algae that the filter has not caught yet, or a filter that is not doing its job. A yellow or brown dust that collects in shady corners, brushes away easily, and is back a few days later is what pool pros call mustard algae. Dark blue-green to black spots that stay put under a brush are usually black algae, which tends to build a protective layer and anchor into rough plaster, so a single shock rarely finishes it.

Each one needs a different amount of brushing, chlorine, and patience, so the first thing we do is look closely at the walls, the floor, and the filter before adding anything.

Why chlorine alone sometimes fails

Most green pools in the Houston area are not out of chlorine because nobody added any. They are out because the chlorine could not keep up. Cyanuric acid (stabilizer) shields chlorine from sunlight at a price: it holds part of the chlorine in reserve, so the free chlorine level needed to kill algae climbs along with the stabilizer reading. Chlorine tablets add stabilizer every time they dissolve. After a summer of tablets, stabilizer can climb so high that a normal shock barely makes a dent. When that happens, the only practical fix is replacing part of the water, and we will tell you so instead of pouring in shock that cannot work.

Phosphates are the other hidden factor. Fertilizer runoff, pollen, and decaying leaves carry nutrients that help algae come back, and one major salt system maker lists phosphates among the first things to test when a chlorine generator cannot raise the chlorine level. We test stabilizer and phosphates before we decide on a plan.

What a cleanup actually takes

Killing algae is the short part of the job. Algae dies fast at the right chlorine level, but the dead algae still has to be brushed loose, filtered out, and vacuumed, and the filter will clog more than once along the way. Cartridge filters often need to be pulled and hosed down during the cleanup, and sand or DE filters need repeated backwashing as pressure climbs.

We consider a pool finished when the water is clear to the main drain, the walls and floor show no algae, and the pool holds its chlorine overnight. A pool that is still losing chlorine overnight still has algae somewhere, and stopping early is the usual reason a pool turns green again a week later.

Keeping it from happening again

Houston averages more than 100 days a year at 90 degrees or hotter, and sunlight burns off unprotected chlorine quickly. In that kind of heat, a pool that misses one or two weeks of care can bloom. The most reliable prevention is a steady routine: chlorine held at the right level for your stabilizer, a clean filter, and someone checking the water every week. That is exactly what weekly pool service covers, and starting it right after a cleanup means the first visit begins from clear, balanced water instead of another rescue.

If a storm caused the bloom, start with debris and equipment safety before chemistry; our storm cleanup service covers that order of work. If the filter is the weak link, a deep filter cleaning after the cleanup resets it for the season.

Signs your pool needs a green cleanup

  • You cannot see the main drain from the deck
  • Water is green, teal, grey, or brown instead of blue
  • Walls feel slick or slimy when you brush them
  • Yellow dust keeps coming back in the same shady corner
  • Dark spots on plaster that a brush will not move
  • Chlorine reads zero a day after you shock
  • Filter pressure climbs right after a cleaning

What the cleanup includes

  • Full water test, including stabilizer and phosphates
  • Shock dosed to your stabilizer level, not a guess
  • Brushing walls, steps, and floor to break up algae
  • Skimming leaves and vacuuming dead algae to waste or filter
  • Filter cleaning or backwashing during the cleanup, as often as needed
  • Partial drain and refill when stabilizer is too high to treat
  • Rebalancing pH, alkalinity, and calcium once the water clears
  • A follow-up plan so the pool stays clear
What To Expect

How we clear a green pool

01

Assess

We test the water, check stabilizer and phosphates, look at the filter and pump, and tell you how many visits the pool likely needs.

02

Kill the algae

We raise chlorine to the level your stabilizer requires, brush every surface, and keep the pump running so treated water reaches every corner.

03

Remove it

We vacuum the dead algae, clean or backwash the filter as it loads up, and repeat until the water is clear to the floor.

04

Confirm and balance

Once the pool holds chlorine overnight, we rebalance the water and set you up with a plan to keep it that way.

Questions

Green Pool Cleanup FAQ

A light green pool with a healthy filter can clear in a few days. A dark pool with leaves on the floor and a struggling filter takes longer and several visits. Three things stretch the timeline most: how much debris is sitting on the floor, how high the stabilizer has climbed, and whether the pump runs long enough each day to keep up. After the first look we tell you how many visits to expect.
Usually not. Most green pools clear with the water in place. The exception is stabilizer that has built up past what chlorine can overcome. Texas caps cyanuric acid at 100 ppm for public pools, and a home pool testing well above that is often cheaper to partly drain and refill than to keep shocking. Partial is the key word: enough water stays in to keep the shell weighted against wet ground.
Dead algae is fine enough to pass through a dirty filter or stay suspended for a while. Cloudiness after a shock usually means the filter needs cleaning, the pump needs to run longer, or the pool needs another round of vacuuming. It clears as the filter catches up.
No. Water too murky to show the main drain is also too murky to show a swimmer in trouble on the bottom, which is why Texas requires public pools to stay clear enough to see a black disk at the deepest point. Green water also means sanitizer has dropped too low to control germs. Swim again once the floor is visible and a test meets the CDC baseline for a stabilized pool: pH between 7.0 and 7.8 and at least 2 ppm free chlorine.
Usually one of three reasons: the dose was too small for your stabilizer level, the filter could not remove what the chlorine killed, or the shock went in under afternoon sun and burned off before it worked. A bag or two sized for routine shocking is a small fraction of what a stabilized green pool needs. Testing stabilizer first tells you how much chlorine it really takes, or whether part of the water has to go.
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HoursMon–Fri 8 AM–6 PM · Sat 9 AM–2 PM

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